tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-55553031958348162172023-11-16T03:56:33.604-08:00The Fashionable FlowerA neo-Victorian with way too much education and way too little practical experience dips her toe into the blogging poolJuliehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04769761537392397269noreply@blogger.comBlogger23125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5555303195834816217.post-21480309954770267222016-08-23T10:00:00.000-07:002016-08-23T10:00:25.517-07:00The Big IdeaThe Big Idea's been incubating for years.<br />
<br />
How to turn this:<br />
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<a href="data:image/gif;base64,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" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><span id="goog_468095386"></span><span id="goog_468095387"></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivVxzQ3_4EXVnyh3OvtbCOinlOlnqPuTaZ_eLXSnBaKVAOjZ2DmEh1hQULvTGZLPUMcoRa0zHGJ1M1D_n8y8Ou6N039VB_n4q47aAEI66hWM0sXFifUx7l9EtHFd0ZeU4wKPwZrULyUxw/s1600/1972.95.2b.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivVxzQ3_4EXVnyh3OvtbCOinlOlnqPuTaZ_eLXSnBaKVAOjZ2DmEh1hQULvTGZLPUMcoRa0zHGJ1M1D_n8y8Ou6N039VB_n4q47aAEI66hWM0sXFifUx7l9EtHFd0ZeU4wKPwZrULyUxw/s320/1972.95.2b.jpg" width="305" /></a><br />
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Into this:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieL669pL4B3Ak93vnJEDyMhw-e172yxtmUuNWkKnxrhmOTyQeA8vTJUjFIlxJtgFKIfSBy65ffyjzNsb1cB_6qpEcsHLwhwkvCzEo5_uGUKr74PPyq0l2OUVEU9hV4khPA-geTBGpOiSQ/s1600/Diaz+front.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieL669pL4B3Ak93vnJEDyMhw-e172yxtmUuNWkKnxrhmOTyQeA8vTJUjFIlxJtgFKIfSBy65ffyjzNsb1cB_6qpEcsHLwhwkvCzEo5_uGUKr74PPyq0l2OUVEU9hV4khPA-geTBGpOiSQ/s320/Diaz+front.jpg" width="213" /></a><br />
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How do you take an extant garment, with its generally small size, personalized fit, and limited capacity for handling, and turn it into something you can wear? And more problematically, how do you turn it into something OTHER PEOPLE can wear? Specifically other people you may never see or be able to fit?<br />
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We started with patterns. <a href="http://www.mimic-of-modes.blogspot.com/" target="_blank">Cassidy</a> took dozens of them, from small and large museums, everyday garments and Paris couture. She took photos and noted construction details.<br />
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I tried hand-scaling those patterns in Illustrator. I could get close, but not close enough that we weren't likely to face a mob with torches and pitchforks after their 5th muslin mockup went horribly wrong. The fit on historic clothing is so precise, and modern bodies so different, that no one-size-fits-all was going to fly.<br />
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Generally, pattern companies deal with this by using standard sizing and providing fitting advice. But we've all had that project, the one that would never fit right no matter what, not even with all the best advice in the world.<br />
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We needed a system where people could start with their own bodies and work out. We found it, in <a href="http://www.wildginger.com/" target="_blank">Wild Ginger</a>'s Cameo software. We can draft the patterns at standard sizes, using standard drafting techniques, and then adjust them to multiple measurements that other companies don't even begin to ask for: things like bust height, shoulder drop, neck circumference, ribcage width. This is as close as you can get to couture fit on a costumer's budget. And best of all, because we're doing it digitally, we can do it faster, on a larger scale, and eventually cheaper than anyone else selling custom patterns.<br />
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Sound exciting?<br />
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We think so too.<br />
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You can back our Kickstarter at <a href="https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/741450845/dragonrose-historical-sewing-patterns">https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/741450845/dragonrose-historical-sewing-patterns</a> to pre-order the pattern for the Emile Pingat gown shown above, get a custom sloper to make your own patterns, or get in on the ground floor for any future release. Feeling REALLY generous? You can even get your own replica of the gown as shown.<br />
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C'mon, look at these faces. Can you really say no to this???<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi95pLaPOXop1ivJPR793JnH3AkAa9vtHGl4xleLLXIzbrb24bfBfx79puygrofQFENwPXb2IEaxtXy9B8yRdzWHLpyC3ggYFKDjmwG4K7uWXSGMBNclH52JAeqVjYV50HJdb4BH045Ap0/s1600/04_Formals-19.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi95pLaPOXop1ivJPR793JnH3AkAa9vtHGl4xleLLXIzbrb24bfBfx79puygrofQFENwPXb2IEaxtXy9B8yRdzWHLpyC3ggYFKDjmwG4K7uWXSGMBNclH52JAeqVjYV50HJdb4BH045Ap0/s320/04_Formals-19.jpg" width="213" /></a>Juliehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04769761537392397269noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5555303195834816217.post-24307722709316053192016-08-21T19:33:00.000-07:002016-08-21T19:33:17.391-07:00Dreaming big: a new pattern company for everyone who hates fitting<h3>
<a href="https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/741450845/dragonrose-historical-sewing-patterns"><b>https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/741450845/dragonrose-historical-sewing-patterns</b></a></h3>
We started small. We asked for $2500 to buy software to launch our pattern line. People got really excited and so did we.<br />
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Once we crossed the $4000 mark, stuff got real, and it was time to figure out what else we could get to streamline the pattern drafting and printing process, and to ensure that all our backers got the absolute best product we could give them.<br />
<br />
So now we want one of these:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiq-d-neRuXtOPKn_l7aV6B5Cab7sCTmsItgzp4chAjEYudQA7mhcrZuWyBQovQXAc0KJOMOCntfnF3dznziltze6BoiF72YZpGDVK5oajbFhES5OS-GdObRnDpjuRYNoknkPuqnVadRao/s1600/FlexJetE.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="232" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiq-d-neRuXtOPKn_l7aV6B5Cab7sCTmsItgzp4chAjEYudQA7mhcrZuWyBQovQXAc0KJOMOCntfnF3dznziltze6BoiF72YZpGDVK5oajbFhES5OS-GdObRnDpjuRYNoknkPuqnVadRao/s320/FlexJetE.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />
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At a list price of $12,000 ($10,500 + freight for us because the sales rep was so excited about our Kickstarter,) this baby can print an entire pattern on 72" paper in under 3 minutes. A $30 ink cartridge will do over 300 patterns. And the ink is less sensitive to heat and moisture than inkjet, making it the ideal printer for sewing patterns that often get pressed or steamed.<br />
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There are only a few days left in the Kickstarter, but if you haven't checked it out yet, there are still some great limited rewards left, as well as the unlimited pattern pre-orders. We are so excited, grateful and humbled by the support and advice we've been offered through this process, and we can't wait to share our patterns with you!Juliehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04769761537392397269noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5555303195834816217.post-76579492068567067982016-08-18T06:50:00.001-07:002016-08-18T06:50:16.406-07:00Hallowedding 2015Things have been crazy. I say that every entry, but, since my last one, things have been REALLY crazy.<br />
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First, this happened, on Halloween (Photos by the incredible <a href="http://www.serena-star.com/" target="_blank">Serena Star Photography</a>.)<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguC-Dz5c0PPBlzte4BQnmCbIgcOUbCGGueXZilBS53xkUiUmetsKCGgY22UCzo36MTE3W8EbWCDxqnIJ8M_FygYIXbJQSJXMfoVLvbABB78W2H9-rf-3RzuPr3b_eH1nm1C9gWnJMHD1w/s1600/04_Formals-85.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguC-Dz5c0PPBlzte4BQnmCbIgcOUbCGGueXZilBS53xkUiUmetsKCGgY22UCzo36MTE3W8EbWCDxqnIJ8M_FygYIXbJQSJXMfoVLvbABB78W2H9-rf-3RzuPr3b_eH1nm1C9gWnJMHD1w/s320/04_Formals-85.jpg" width="320" /></a><span id="goog_1307480492"></span><span id="goog_1307480493"></span><br />
Why yes, that IS a cameo by <a href="http://mimic-of-modes.blogspot.com/" target="_blank">Cassidy</a> on the left.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgefPyNRqgmpmOvOHhHZ82SkIqzpLWTGvSvlsqd2X9WI2GsJvKMzbafq2J1Uih8QPpoF68N5UTqAfqEPg1JjBwGprHmJ0wh8layxjcS6BSqnhaf-89YwZqscabTp6OYuIhPRYaQ19trwI4/s1600/01_BridePrep-133.jpg" imageanchor="1"></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbXHlzDfrWHHKBDSav13B_846sLUQb8uDSwjcvUaGQRrqJKCIlB4VCeZMAShouTOHupS7ZbnJxPfR0Ks696ImxAyX7ssqDG5M7BbPl7CoPcWBaWD4337NQx2X1UWAkbB-cUHWSKiMFC8Q/s1600/01_BridePrep-142.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbXHlzDfrWHHKBDSav13B_846sLUQb8uDSwjcvUaGQRrqJKCIlB4VCeZMAShouTOHupS7ZbnJxPfR0Ks696ImxAyX7ssqDG5M7BbPl7CoPcWBaWD4337NQx2X1UWAkbB-cUHWSKiMFC8Q/s320/01_BridePrep-142.jpg" width="213" /></a><br />
<br />
Headpiece by Taylor at <a href="http://www.damesalamode.com/" target="_blank">Dames a la Mode</a><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgefPyNRqgmpmOvOHhHZ82SkIqzpLWTGvSvlsqd2X9WI2GsJvKMzbafq2J1Uih8QPpoF68N5UTqAfqEPg1JjBwGprHmJ0wh8layxjcS6BSqnhaf-89YwZqscabTp6OYuIhPRYaQ19trwI4/s1600/01_BridePrep-133.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgefPyNRqgmpmOvOHhHZ82SkIqzpLWTGvSvlsqd2X9WI2GsJvKMzbafq2J1Uih8QPpoF68N5UTqAfqEPg1JjBwGprHmJ0wh8layxjcS6BSqnhaf-89YwZqscabTp6OYuIhPRYaQ19trwI4/s320/01_BridePrep-133.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />
Shoes are the Renoir style by <a href="http://www.american-duchess.com/" target="_blank">American Duchess</a><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZY4iEx6xuxzo3f9msC74ZJllESMW1ZcOsw4iWwrAqw25-7B_N2kltHWbNHRuUlBDji-GNs0TBmO2hTPmMbcYem4jReD1Mp-uo_qLo-SLZBIgx9rz0dm35qhMyIJ7QYatvLbOTeXKKWmg/s1600/05_Ceremony-153+-+Copy.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZY4iEx6xuxzo3f9msC74ZJllESMW1ZcOsw4iWwrAqw25-7B_N2kltHWbNHRuUlBDji-GNs0TBmO2hTPmMbcYem4jReD1Mp-uo_qLo-SLZBIgx9rz0dm35qhMyIJ7QYatvLbOTeXKKWmg/s320/05_Ceremony-153+-+Copy.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgffq_CTEZALmbo6bl_-2AVbKS_Nnb-ZzhMqYvuucyEVsV6nihljDeoCpyg-HGdgDlHwbqe5Nh5Kbag-kS3vegBknksYqbqG82SgCwvrbeQhOhA7rFcT1SLGkWoU5dom4hcWlcU8PCzQ9w/s1600/01_BridePrep-159.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgffq_CTEZALmbo6bl_-2AVbKS_Nnb-ZzhMqYvuucyEVsV6nihljDeoCpyg-HGdgDlHwbqe5Nh5Kbag-kS3vegBknksYqbqG82SgCwvrbeQhOhA7rFcT1SLGkWoU5dom4hcWlcU8PCzQ9w/s320/01_BridePrep-159.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />
I so love my purple monster.<br />
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I made 5 other dresses for members of the wedding party, in addition to my own. My options were blog or sew. I sewed.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQ-Jr9UUrTu-r-_clvubrLod3AXjbkClt0VRTOcOhUIvvC5qy_4Z7o4AEDJwXvesoLTfTKrhNh-3ZNQt5FirYReySMThoAEFsDOdCWoa1eIp3JLbcc14G9QD_fzy9yxcdMitCeMtZnGfA/s1600/04_Formals-106.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQ-Jr9UUrTu-r-_clvubrLod3AXjbkClt0VRTOcOhUIvvC5qy_4Z7o4AEDJwXvesoLTfTKrhNh-3ZNQt5FirYReySMThoAEFsDOdCWoa1eIp3JLbcc14G9QD_fzy9yxcdMitCeMtZnGfA/s320/04_Formals-106.jpg" width="213" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwnYIU5EOeXIvgMnCKqaXvPlbgF-3A1hyphenhyphennYXktpwfDQwK0-QnRErZgA8iB8sUxQdHVVZUMesyHqTG_HMgqfaskTwKCKa00Py8J10hiEO1zkQ9eQoRkDQAw1ugPfgqngZ9kXkikuUIi-co/s1600/04_Formals-9.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwnYIU5EOeXIvgMnCKqaXvPlbgF-3A1hyphenhyphennYXktpwfDQwK0-QnRErZgA8iB8sUxQdHVVZUMesyHqTG_HMgqfaskTwKCKa00Py8J10hiEO1zkQ9eQoRkDQAw1ugPfgqngZ9kXkikuUIi-co/s320/04_Formals-9.jpg" width="213" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbUosJHVfwWiOzticEDve_34BxM5lIL9eMfm_khyphenhyphenYulYrlDavLptdjGFKUfLWs67YNmtSAkq0tBkOxB1pXW3SNE6uHSJJHQI75hCCIMjWbFmEpMx2b44fDkJ045TbGoqFLM7d7cFLqfcI/s1600/01_BridePrep-117.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbUosJHVfwWiOzticEDve_34BxM5lIL9eMfm_khyphenhyphenYulYrlDavLptdjGFKUfLWs67YNmtSAkq0tBkOxB1pXW3SNE6uHSJJHQI75hCCIMjWbFmEpMx2b44fDkJ045TbGoqFLM7d7cFLqfcI/s320/01_BridePrep-117.jpg" width="213" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJIulf4WsajMLDXQpRSMj5twtj2RsYYCjQAvmbvuRKmzr3zddy_Mo8x-AEhpkyCsGnN990r3LzouZy4qwvvtHizP0F5BA2Y6aD1S1Cn1BraehIxJtqGa-6YOrfxbaq6tjmcjUoVRwvQlw/s1600/01_BridePrep-114.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJIulf4WsajMLDXQpRSMj5twtj2RsYYCjQAvmbvuRKmzr3zddy_Mo8x-AEhpkyCsGnN990r3LzouZy4qwvvtHizP0F5BA2Y6aD1S1Cn1BraehIxJtqGa-6YOrfxbaq6tjmcjUoVRwvQlw/s320/01_BridePrep-114.jpg" width="213" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEha6Mj3p0wBYHFNmKBqucrk-LxXvw9CTCLjjdM2_5-tv93k8iqbVBzq9gk1RG08cKf5v17wMtnoDuulQVh_6xF3wJcf4-aIYrA7yi4OS96HuQJnU0rMyyJ6IfwTzzoG0dU_OPlKlva2xzk/s1600/01_BridePrep-27.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEha6Mj3p0wBYHFNmKBqucrk-LxXvw9CTCLjjdM2_5-tv93k8iqbVBzq9gk1RG08cKf5v17wMtnoDuulQVh_6xF3wJcf4-aIYrA7yi4OS96HuQJnU0rMyyJ6IfwTzzoG0dU_OPlKlva2xzk/s320/01_BridePrep-27.jpg" width="213" /></a><br />
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The other 4 bridesmaids made their own dresses, because somehow I ended up with an amazingly talented group of friends.<br />
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I think the best part was how many people dressed up. I think the folks that grumbled about how they were going to "feel weird" in costume really felt left out by the end of the night, because they were a clear minority. It was kind of a lovely feeling.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoe_-prVOJdsH7s5gxHuSZoSCBEorclLUVqEEUMR71L-DRiNqkBuRGDh_83EJrsGw1AyfkAcfP0-cxjAjncAUmMrUmTohvqVG45yn7FVDvlWoCpZtTZnZKvXinyrr-97y4-d8EnwjZZdU/s1600/04_Formals-116.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="425" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoe_-prVOJdsH7s5gxHuSZoSCBEorclLUVqEEUMR71L-DRiNqkBuRGDh_83EJrsGw1AyfkAcfP0-cxjAjncAUmMrUmTohvqVG45yn7FVDvlWoCpZtTZnZKvXinyrr-97y4-d8EnwjZZdU/s640/04_Formals-116.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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So yes. That's where I've been.Juliehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04769761537392397269noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5555303195834816217.post-75218207621333155812015-04-25T12:36:00.001-07:002015-04-25T16:08:49.836-07:00*Thud*Busy day today. After working til almost 11:30 last night, I woke up early to come back in. We hosted an amazing embroidery workshop by Larissa of <a href="http://www.oldetownebead.com/" target="_blank">Olde Towne Bead Supply</a> and now I'm TIRED.<br />
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"But the bridesmaid dress!" you say.</div>
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Fine. </div>
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The inspiration: </div>
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The corset</div>
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And the dress</div>
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Skirt is Truly Victorian TV208, and the bodice is TV400. The overskirt is an original 1869 Godey's pattern for a pannier overskirt. </div>
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Now if you'll excuse me, my couch and a period drama marathon are calling my name (Oh who am I kidding? I'll be sewing until at least dinnertime. Down time between projects is MY time!) </div>
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Juliehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04769761537392397269noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5555303195834816217.post-1801905479067763512015-04-23T18:33:00.001-07:002015-04-23T18:33:47.277-07:00A Bridesmaid's BustleMy oldest and dearest friend, K, doesn't sew. Well, that's not true. She can hem a pair of pants and reattach a button. But that's pretty much it. So when I asked her to be a bridesmaid in my Victorian wedding, it was with the knowledge that I would be making her dress, along with all the underpinnings. <div><br></div><div>K loves red and black. I did her corset in a red and black rose brocade (finished in a hurry for her birthday, so no pictures!). When it came time to tackle the bustle, I decided black was boring, so I went for a vibrant red. I used Truly Victorian TV108, the petticoat bustle so I wouldn't need to make a separate petticoat.</div><div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYXsAu3Su55S4cxByQFIWL3p_aHdEetjhHqiah5hW1uj68TfuMuH130ri7cfCFkey6YAr3Mu7kSgenkHqn9geIPaJBHxOOVReUxnwSJnC11DXyWJSeukZ-STL7ZUxVCDXG2MawgOn6RtU/s640/blogger-image--748185042.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYXsAu3Su55S4cxByQFIWL3p_aHdEetjhHqiah5hW1uj68TfuMuH130ri7cfCFkey6YAr3Mu7kSgenkHqn9geIPaJBHxOOVReUxnwSJnC11DXyWJSeukZ-STL7ZUxVCDXG2MawgOn6RtU/s640/blogger-image--748185042.jpg"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Front</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIFl7ljVJEFR17ljDU0B8ZGRodJt-LWktEpnnLIVPk5PZM6gsi5Sbu2QAUdNqZQUubtDDJ09rUeehZVL1VwSdeWCmkAK1FOrCptHV80diS348z3B13banjhnj3R2ahmK7K-BHJXMm8FAw/s640/blogger-image-1190195105.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIFl7ljVJEFR17ljDU0B8ZGRodJt-LWktEpnnLIVPk5PZM6gsi5Sbu2QAUdNqZQUubtDDJ09rUeehZVL1VwSdeWCmkAK1FOrCptHV80diS348z3B13banjhnj3R2ahmK7K-BHJXMm8FAw/s640/blogger-image-1190195105.jpg"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Side</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRktj3SAGw3OiNjwiAQ7lLTWJQaGITzYeHfZ3nmPoeO_-6kS2PqbVxumQbVpxm-glTtS4zCSnEET02kMuV3LsmDZUFzsSEbeZQfU3TFqpdwJTkJMVCGWAvcimIPrdaPCZG8DCCANByS0E/s640/blogger-image--1400744437.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRktj3SAGw3OiNjwiAQ7lLTWJQaGITzYeHfZ3nmPoeO_-6kS2PqbVxumQbVpxm-glTtS4zCSnEET02kMuV3LsmDZUFzsSEbeZQfU3TFqpdwJTkJMVCGWAvcimIPrdaPCZG8DCCANByS0E/s640/blogger-image--1400744437.jpg"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Back. So. Many. Ruffles. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">K is a tiny thing so I shortened the pattern so much I lost an entire tier of ruffles. I also extended the bottom ruffle around the entire hem since there won't be a second petticoat. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">And a sneak peek of the untrimmed but otherwise completed dress (she's doing her final fitting tomorrow): </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfbe5-CSvI49IO_BSWCLIb5JPleovRK1xaoZUT9punM93oAskq-jvbRmp5tjg0VLq-wI3NyrDf0xWVHsueTAlPaikxPXpzGxMX-BlpyCMYQWqOMIJDEHy30BWzfAd4i70LO3iuc5m_o3M/s640/blogger-image--541385685.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfbe5-CSvI49IO_BSWCLIb5JPleovRK1xaoZUT9punM93oAskq-jvbRmp5tjg0VLq-wI3NyrDf0xWVHsueTAlPaikxPXpzGxMX-BlpyCMYQWqOMIJDEHy30BWzfAd4i70LO3iuc5m_o3M/s640/blogger-image--541385685.jpg"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">More photos tomorrow when I have her in it!</div><br></div><br></div><br></div><br><div><br></div><div><br></div></div>Juliehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04769761537392397269noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5555303195834816217.post-60428775762985335752015-03-23T17:29:00.001-07:002015-03-23T17:29:13.851-07:00A Petticoat from NothingWhile home over the holidays, antiquing with my mom, I picked up the most amazing(ly awful) wedding gown, circa 1990. What it lacked in taste, it made up for in an abundance of lovely pleated organza and lace trim, and a nice long, full train. <div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4piEiAYBdYk0IlO5RpP2ke2-RMjdPQPPthyvRGWY_n6hqwBxXKBcoYOLQhwNO-N-m6hEfys1j-PosGm5hmQ4xHwFTNos4XVAKSzZz_6_TB3HSVCIznz2SBUpz5S0LzFvut8uQ5-wNT7M/s640/blogger-image-2103539835.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4piEiAYBdYk0IlO5RpP2ke2-RMjdPQPPthyvRGWY_n6hqwBxXKBcoYOLQhwNO-N-m6hEfys1j-PosGm5hmQ4xHwFTNos4XVAKSzZz_6_TB3HSVCIznz2SBUpz5S0LzFvut8uQ5-wNT7M/s640/blogger-image-2103539835.jpg"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">I mean, come on, who wouldn't want to put this on their body?</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhS7O3psPrQkTMSWd-hdAOHfEyTcvl4KVxULGgut2q0JAmfUPcfgfaAaSsh5PjBLQJaITM52SqNArVai9TxNl_-WHf2Jg8YmK_UImAPb7-B36XNxd275maOBCs5XHdiT-QYzmtMLcf3eng/s640/blogger-image--1588855045.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhS7O3psPrQkTMSWd-hdAOHfEyTcvl4KVxULGgut2q0JAmfUPcfgfaAaSsh5PjBLQJaITM52SqNArVai9TxNl_-WHf2Jg8YmK_UImAPb7-B36XNxd275maOBCs5XHdiT-QYzmtMLcf3eng/s640/blogger-image--1588855045.jpg"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Forgive the already detached pictures, I had it taken apart before I remembered to blog. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">To give this sad creature a new life, I decided to turn it into a Victorian petticoat.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Step One: remove zipper and bodice. Laugh some more at the care tag. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Step Two: Measure out a piece of ribbon (I used petersham, you can use grosgrain or twill tape) your waist measurement + 2 1/2". Press under 1/2" on one short edge and 1" on the other short edge. This will support your closure. <div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Step Three: Mark center front in your waistband and center front of the skirt. If you need to shorten the skirt, do so now, from the waist edge. To lengthen the skirt, measure a band of matching cotton the extra length you need plus 1" and stitch it to the top of your skirt with a 1/2" seam before attaching the waistband. Mine turned out to be fine, length-wise, so I didn't do either of these things. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Step Four: pin both closure edges and center front. On the waistband edge where you pressed under 1/2", line the fold on the waistband up with the folded edge of the fabric. On the edge you pressed under 1", line the folded edge of the fabric up with the END of the ribbon. You will have 1" hanging over the edge. This is for your overlap and closure. <div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTxdOybi3cRQgtl0qQP_ixb3J15NTjm5MOWC-Qwqv7Q_xHL9IGLLzVvGPXAPPXe89YLrpBvWwuSu24vomufPxieTnzuz2RwZENitt1q_mDLZaWY9dpilCAabXHGkuLt9CAQAwLXAjppZY/s640/blogger-image--255340378.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTxdOybi3cRQgtl0qQP_ixb3J15NTjm5MOWC-Qwqv7Q_xHL9IGLLzVvGPXAPPXe89YLrpBvWwuSu24vomufPxieTnzuz2RwZENitt1q_mDLZaWY9dpilCAabXHGkuLt9CAQAwLXAjppZY/s640/blogger-image--255340378.jpg"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Step Five: Gather or pleat the fabric to fit the waistband. You want to gather a bit more densely in the back if you want it to accommodate a bustle. I left 6 inches ungathered either side of center front, a little less than half my waist measurement. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVoZEM8SEzHDDu3BN8DHIUY500Gj6zZOS-C4gd1kuxOinVmSAZpZ8n3pLyqJr8o7VmP-1tVtbPp9aDxjUyDV1ta51rxz8SvHtbXMVh6TD2Sb3QEJEh_v1u14cdwkiqXOTatdEGfpOsoho/s640/blogger-image-1513433974.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVoZEM8SEzHDDu3BN8DHIUY500Gj6zZOS-C4gd1kuxOinVmSAZpZ8n3pLyqJr8o7VmP-1tVtbPp9aDxjUyDV1ta51rxz8SvHtbXMVh6TD2Sb3QEJEh_v1u14cdwkiqXOTatdEGfpOsoho/s640/blogger-image-1513433974.jpg"></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Step Six : Attach your waistband. I used a 1/2" seam. Adjust to your preference. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Step Seven: Attach closures. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">And done! </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_Fmcuz2ZB4y87_n43pDelKT8KQ_O5N5LeMbxPHMAzHCdbcN_wRL-gaPu4VhjYtnJw63vcqauHLSUZZgYqB6JhwB6Rf6zWC0K8-JSZcSPRyZ6J-QLPsyMWWDEJ0iENDoEoH4eSsGLATOI/s640/blogger-image-1702729068.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_Fmcuz2ZB4y87_n43pDelKT8KQ_O5N5LeMbxPHMAzHCdbcN_wRL-gaPu4VhjYtnJw63vcqauHLSUZZgYqB6JhwB6Rf6zWC0K8-JSZcSPRyZ6J-QLPsyMWWDEJ0iENDoEoH4eSsGLATOI/s640/blogger-image-1702729068.jpg"></a></div><br></div><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div><br></div><br></div>Juliehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04769761537392397269noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5555303195834816217.post-64044776081504927172013-03-23T18:13:00.002-07:002013-03-23T18:13:51.378-07:00My New Hat<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Since my cap seems to have vanished to parts unknown (and I know what I'LL be doing tomorrow), it was time to finally get around to trimming one of the hats I bought at Colonial Williamsburg last year. My problem with these hats was twofold. One, they're ENORMOUS. Like Sunbonnet Sue enormous. And two, the crown is too high - they look like modern gardening hats. So I knew they were going to need some surgery. Rather than making do, I decided to try some major surgery. Fortunately, the straw in these is just chain stitched together and taking them apart wasn't too bad. I started with the brim and just kept taking coils off until I liked it, then re-knotted the thread to keep it from pulling out any further. Then, emboldened by my success, I cut off the crown completely and repeated the process until it was about half as high as it had been, then spliced it back in and stitched it down by hand. And, miraculously, it WORKED!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBcHBqqdbkJgCim-vgCl70djfZ5h66Nac70Z7dUTaql-7dCReFN6RMsliSuE0c2kH1ptwvfVkpOfhx-Ji1HkqoqHsc7KxcpKGLqsAbqeSZM9A65PbsRbEr1jjHCnmAaDxWraWi1L4_8Gg/s1600/striped+hat+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="116" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBcHBqqdbkJgCim-vgCl70djfZ5h66Nac70Z7dUTaql-7dCReFN6RMsliSuE0c2kH1ptwvfVkpOfhx-Ji1HkqoqHsc7KxcpKGLqsAbqeSZM9A65PbsRbEr1jjHCnmAaDxWraWi1L4_8Gg/s320/striped+hat+2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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These are two side-by-side comparisons of the unaltered hat and the altered one. I like mine much better, don't you?</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiv3DDaQrH8DFJ8uqTN-HowJvh_mCkEQYJQbYLZOhs8hSoeARWpNTuAh-UYRg8vYg0mzmk-H9A9VagJSyFOIVfmkq2XArLbmtuqyOL3KHPGtaz-FxtK1WR6VaG3JgeMRi39-WA0RhYYyZg/s1600/striped+hat+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiv3DDaQrH8DFJ8uqTN-HowJvh_mCkEQYJQbYLZOhs8hSoeARWpNTuAh-UYRg8vYg0mzmk-H9A9VagJSyFOIVfmkq2XArLbmtuqyOL3KHPGtaz-FxtK1WR6VaG3JgeMRi39-WA0RhYYyZg/s320/striped+hat+1.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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The pleating on the crown is from <a href="http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/25602/how-to-make-a-lovely-pleated-ribbon-trim/page/all" target="_blank">this Threads tutorial</a> and it turned out nicely. The ribbon is 1 inch wide striped acetate from M&J Trimmings, pleated into 5/8" box pleats by hand and then the "box" part of each pleat has a tiny stitch in the center of it holding both selvages in. The brim is bound in the same ribbon, and I used it for the ties as well. All told, I used about 5 yards.</div>
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For the Historical Sew-Fortnightly:<br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; line-height: 18.88888931274414px;">The Challenge: #6 Stripes</span><br style="background-color: white; color: #333333; line-height: 18.88888931274414px;" /><br style="background-color: white; color: #333333; line-height: 18.88888931274414px;" /><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; line-height: 18.88888931274414px;">Fabric: Straw hat, striped ribbon</span><br style="background-color: white; color: #333333; line-height: 18.88888931274414px;" /><br style="background-color: white; color: #333333; line-height: 18.88888931274414px;" /><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; line-height: 18.88888931274414px;">Pattern: None</span><br style="background-color: white; color: #333333; line-height: 18.88888931274414px;" /><br style="background-color: white; color: #333333; line-height: 18.88888931274414px;" /><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; line-height: 18.88888931274414px;">Year: 18th century</span><br style="background-color: white; color: #333333; line-height: 18.88888931274414px;" /><br style="background-color: white; color: #333333; line-height: 18.88888931274414px;" /><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; line-height: 18.88888931274414px;">Notions: Thread, scissors, needle.</span><br style="background-color: white; color: #333333; line-height: 18.88888931274414px;" /><br style="background-color: white; color: #333333; line-height: 18.88888931274414px;" /><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; line-height: 18.88888931274414px;">How historically accurate is it? Not bad, although the ribbon is synthetic</span><br style="background-color: white; color: #333333; line-height: 18.88888931274414px;" /><br style="background-color: white; color: #333333; line-height: 18.88888931274414px;" /><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; line-height: 18.88888931274414px;">Hours to complete: About 5</span><br style="background-color: white; color: #333333; line-height: 18.88888931274414px;" /><br style="background-color: white; color: #333333; line-height: 18.88888931274414px;" /><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; line-height: 18.88888931274414px;">First worn: Colonial Williamsburg 2013</span><br style="background-color: white; color: #333333; line-height: 18.88888931274414px;" /><br style="background-color: white; color: #333333; line-height: 18.88888931274414px;" /><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; line-height: 18.88888931274414px;">Total cost: about $40</span></span>Juliehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04769761537392397269noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5555303195834816217.post-25769403677304251362013-02-20T20:00:00.000-08:002013-02-20T20:00:00.394-08:001880s Bashlik<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Victorian Bashlik (hooded scarf) from Fashions of the Gilded Age, black wool coating, machine and hand-embroidered, and hand-beaded. Because who doesn't need Victorian outerwear? I fell in love with a few of these at the Met, but this is as far down the embroidery and beadwork rabbit hole as I was willing to go at the moment.</div>
<br />Juliehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04769761537392397269noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5555303195834816217.post-76343869099769250612013-02-17T19:03:00.001-08:002013-02-17T19:03:28.113-08:00Cotton Anglaise is in the final stages!Much thanks again to <a href="http://mimic-of-modes.blogspot.com/" target="_blank">Cassidy</a> for her excellent help fitting the caraco pattern and lacing me into my new stays so we could do the final tweaks for the cotton Anglaise and letting me love on her dog.<br />
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I didn't accomplish quite as much as I'd hoped today, but the socializing more than made up for it. And the puppy. Did I mention there was a puppy??<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDq5KE3w1J7IV1NsAYXVFdsssXl8WI40vKWKLXRzyovwVujLFfFtV7cRYyxr2cNd9MoOzbz0-oV-azxsg_8-jVTUPhyhmypgpkOrjp1HbqIR6rtyEyRu3NR-Ux6Oq5uDIZKAr8J3w6FUY/s1600/williamsburg+anglaise+009.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDq5KE3w1J7IV1NsAYXVFdsssXl8WI40vKWKLXRzyovwVujLFfFtV7cRYyxr2cNd9MoOzbz0-oV-azxsg_8-jVTUPhyhmypgpkOrjp1HbqIR6rtyEyRu3NR-Ux6Oq5uDIZKAr8J3w6FUY/s320/williamsburg+anglaise+009.jpg" width="157" /></a></div>
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It's SO POOFY. Plus this is the new petticoat I made last night. I think I might round that corner a bit though just for aesthetics. And then I can rightly call it polonaise, right?</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiazRcNJ0HzQmDDvuteJbaHCEXW5nyBtgD-Jj2Wnn5DHsGvV7h8zcOmpf7PsCpApDQVHOn2NE1myX-9KzM6I2Sb9fkCaNXSip2Mf476v18luVQDxlfla6fo0The1KsAmCoHy1dRgpjjh9w/s1600/williamsburg+anglaise+011.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="317" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiazRcNJ0HzQmDDvuteJbaHCEXW5nyBtgD-Jj2Wnn5DHsGvV7h8zcOmpf7PsCpApDQVHOn2NE1myX-9KzM6I2Sb9fkCaNXSip2Mf476v18luVQDxlfla6fo0The1KsAmCoHy1dRgpjjh9w/s320/williamsburg+anglaise+011.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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After this picture, I knocked down the neckline at the center back by about half an inch.</div>
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I did mention the puppy, right??? And that tan stuff sticking out of the neckline is the unfinished binding on my stays, so don't judge.</div>
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We had some great conversations too, but the biggest one that sticks in my mind is the one about what garment "caraco" actually denotes and whether Janet Arnold was *gasp* wrong. So expect some discussion on that on either her blog or mine but someone needs to write about it because it was super interesting and Cassidy is insanely smart about this fashion history thing, and here I am going "I sew stuff." But between the two of us, we determined we should be ruling the world. </div>
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Everyone would be better dressed.</div>
<br />Juliehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04769761537392397269noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5555303195834816217.post-58413307332540700722013-02-16T21:37:00.000-08:002013-02-16T21:37:13.517-08:00How is Saturday over already?So I made a petticoat today. It's plain red cotton and it's boring. But it means my new Williamsburg cotton can be my caraco, so I'm okay with it for the moment, and I can always get more of the printed cotton when we're down there in April to make a matching petticoat for the Anglaise. I ordered linen gauze from <a href="http://fabrics-store.com/" target="_blank">http://fabrics-store.com/</a> to make some sleeve ruffles, a new shift and a fichu, so that should cover all my accessories.<br />
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Once again no pictures, but I promise to make up for it tomorrow. The lovely Cassidy of <a href="http://mimic-of-modes.blogspot.com/" target="_blank">A Most Beguiling Accomplishment</a> has graciously allowed me to come over and sew and we're going to lace me into my new stays, finish fitting the caraco pattern, mark the front closure of the cotton Anglaise, and generally make merry in the most tame and stereotypically feminine way possible. I am going to seriously try to remember to make her take some pictures of all my fancy new clothes. Note to self: pack shift and wear some makeup.<br />
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So, as of right now, my to-do list for the next 3 weeks is:<br />
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-Finish hand work on stays (eyelets on shoulder straps, binding)<br />
-Finish hand work on gown (reset skirt front to hide yoke of quilted petticoat, finish bottom of bodice, put bones in center front and back, put hooks and eyes on front)<br />
-Finish hand work on red petticoat (waistband and ties)<br />
-Fit caraco pattern<br />
-Make caraco (waiting for fabric)<br />
-Make stomacher for caraco (waiting for fabric)<br />
-Make sleeve ruffles (waiting for fabric)<br />
-Make fichu (waiting for fabric)<br />
-Find small fly fringe-type trim to cover the machine stitching on petticoat ruffle<br />
-Pattern and make a red cloak<br />
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I think I can do it. Next weekend is going to be crazy busy, with a friend's birthday, a <a href="http://clermontstatehistoricsite.blogspot.com/2013/01/winter-blue-not-here.html" target="_blank">historical fashion show</a>, and the <a href="http://www.facebook.com/groups/447622885300849/" target="_blank">Empire State Costumers' Guild</a> February meeting, which is going to be a costumed tea party in Latham, NY. (If you're nearby and you're interested, please join us!) but the weekend after I'm totally uncommitted, so if I can get a lot of the fiddly hand stuff done tomorrow, I'll be in good shape.<br />
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A teaser:<br />
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This is how I pattern, y'all. Because I'm always paranoid that I'll screw up the scaling, and with much thanks to <a href="http://www.ralphpink.com/archives/2657" target="_blank">this tutorial</a> from Ralph Pink.Juliehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04769761537392397269noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5555303195834816217.post-19810769548761500962013-02-13T20:00:00.000-08:002013-02-13T20:00:03.970-08:001903 Swan CorsetStill slogging along on the Truly Victorian 1903 corset of utter girliness. I finally got it to a stage where I could try it on, so that happened. <div>
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This is seriously going to be the girliest thing I've ever made. You can't see it in these pictures but I discovered the decorative stitches on the Singer that I never use ever, and every seam now has a line of pink swans on it. I have pink silk ribbon for binding, and insertion lace with a narrower pink silk ribbon woven through it for trim at the top. I am about as far from a pink person as anyone you can imagine, but I feel like if you're going to go Edwardian, you might as well go whole hog. The plan for the eventual dress to go over this is a super lacy lingerie dress, but that may not happen for years. But it's a start!</div>
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Juliehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04769761537392397269noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5555303195834816217.post-15136294302112760732013-02-10T17:28:00.004-08:002013-02-10T17:28:58.791-08:00Photo post!<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13.333333969116211px; line-height: 18.88888931274414px;">First, the obligatory post for the <a href="http://thedreamstress.com/the-historical-sew-fortnightly/" target="_blank">Historical Sew Fortnightly Challenge</a></span><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13.333333969116211px; line-height: 18.88888931274414px;">The Challenge: #3 Under It All</span><br style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13.333333969116211px; line-height: 18.88888931274414px;" /><br style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13.333333969116211px; line-height: 18.88888931274414px;" /><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13.333333969116211px; line-height: 18.88888931274414px;">Fabric: Pre-quilted silk dupioni, muslin</span><br style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13.333333969116211px; line-height: 18.88888931274414px;" /><br style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13.333333969116211px; line-height: 18.88888931274414px;" /><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13.333333969116211px; line-height: 18.88888931274414px;">Pattern: None, but thanks to Koshka the Cat's helpful <a href="http://koshka-the-cat.com/18c_petticoat.html" target="_blank">tutorial</a> on leveling a petticoat and <a href="http://www.demodecouture.com/galleries/18th/" target="_blank">Demode Couture</a>'s referral to Patterns of Fashion for the yoke!</span><br style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13.333333969116211px; line-height: 18.88888931274414px;" /><br style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13.333333969116211px; line-height: 18.88888931274414px;" /><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13.333333969116211px; line-height: 18.88888931274414px;">Year: 18th century</span><br style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13.333333969116211px; line-height: 18.88888931274414px;" /><br style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13.333333969116211px; line-height: 18.88888931274414px;" /><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13.333333969116211px; line-height: 18.88888931274414px;">Notions: Cotton twill tape for ties</span><br style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13.333333969116211px; line-height: 18.88888931274414px;" /><br style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13.333333969116211px; line-height: 18.88888931274414px;" /><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13.333333969116211px; line-height: 18.88888931274414px;">How historically accurate is it? Machine quilted, with polyester batting and the backing is probably also poly, plus the yoke should be the same silk but I was SO not about to unpick enough of it to use for that. </span><br style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13.333333969116211px; line-height: 18.88888931274414px;" /><br style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13.333333969116211px; line-height: 18.88888931274414px;" /><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13.333333969116211px; line-height: 18.88888931274414px;">Hours to complete: 5-6 (I started it this afternoon but was working on other things in between)</span><br style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13.333333969116211px; line-height: 18.88888931274414px;" /><br style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13.333333969116211px; line-height: 18.88888931274414px;" /><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13.333333969116211px; line-height: 18.88888931274414px;">First worn: Will be worn to Empire State Costumers costumed tea 2/24, possibly with a caraco if I get really motivated</span><br style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13.333333969116211px; line-height: 18.88888931274414px;" /><br style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13.333333969116211px; line-height: 18.88888931274414px;" /><span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13.333333969116211px; line-height: 18.88888931274414px;">Total cost: $25</span><br />
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Next, what I spent the rest of my weekend doing:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6txgtUBXzE6KsSB1AhqoxsO2IxNXP2mCLIGbVHs7EHP5j_lAy09FgFMjKJkf8ujPIbrCBju37Edf9g_bj5pg4WvFac7Ic2OdyDySwU7NhkWJLji4jxUYqfcZHNvZbd3xOmxOHxz_H-qw/s1600/williamsburg+anglaise+005.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6txgtUBXzE6KsSB1AhqoxsO2IxNXP2mCLIGbVHs7EHP5j_lAy09FgFMjKJkf8ujPIbrCBju37Edf9g_bj5pg4WvFac7Ic2OdyDySwU7NhkWJLji4jxUYqfcZHNvZbd3xOmxOHxz_H-qw/s320/williamsburg+anglaise+005.jpg" width="195" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifC6nifAHtzCIEfBpgvo1BJOreWnhP6EJWKPyfaPBe_OW25T5zInwuXC_tqVMCajW3JHyzXVNllcBTTfel4wlkYGX46gc40GpHAIaEbigNZOLoLZCLjlc_mBc_V5tu28rdnFcQ9W9mCMM/s1600/williamsburg+anglaise+007.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifC6nifAHtzCIEfBpgvo1BJOreWnhP6EJWKPyfaPBe_OW25T5zInwuXC_tqVMCajW3JHyzXVNllcBTTfel4wlkYGX46gc40GpHAIaEbigNZOLoLZCLjlc_mBc_V5tu28rdnFcQ9W9mCMM/s320/williamsburg+anglaise+007.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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The fabric is a cotton print my parents brought me from Colonial Williamsburg. Please forgive the weird positioning of the arms, the dress form's shoulders are much too wide for the dress. But another couple hours of hand work and it'll be totally done.</div>
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Not bad for a weekend's work.</div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13.333333969116211px; line-height: 18.88888931274414px;"><br /></span>Juliehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04769761537392397269noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5555303195834816217.post-47566202903409664402013-02-09T22:20:00.002-08:002013-02-09T22:20:49.047-08:00Printed Cotton Robe a l'AnglaiseI mostly finished the Anglaise today, but discovered that with pocket hoops under it, it's too wide to successfully photograph in a mirror. Since no one was around to help me photograph, and the shoulders of my 18th century stuff don't fit my dress form, photographs will have to wait.<br />
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Things I learned today:<br />
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When you take the ease out of a sleeve head, add length back into the bottom. My nice cupped-elbow sleeves definitely hit right above the elbow. Fortunately sleeve ruffles will hide a lot of that.<br />
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Flat lining is SO MUCH FASTER AND EASIER than bag lining. Flat lining is where you treat your lining and your outer fabric like one piece when you sew the seams, instead of sewing the seams in the outer fabric, then sewing the seams in the lining, then sewing them together. Even with the extra basting, it was much faster than the last time I made this pattern.<br />
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Waist ties on petticoats are irresistible to Siamese cats that think the inside of your new foofy skirt is a good place to hide. While you're wearing it. That was awkward.<br />
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Shorten the waist on the back of the pattern next time. The front waist is perfect for 1780, just above natural, but the back is just a touch too long and bunches up weird at my lower back. A bone should fix that though.<br />
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When you make the same pattern twice, and both times you think "gosh this neckline is too low," for the love of all that is holy, the next time you make the pattern, RAISE THE NECKLINE. I cut it again then remembered that, and then it was too late. I think I'm going to print this post and stick it in the bag with the pattern.<br />
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Pay attention to the print of your fabric when cutting your front pieces. It looks a little weird because I was trying to save fabric to have enough to make a petticoat, and the motifs totally don't line up. I sort of think that's the kind of thing no one cares about but me, though.<br />
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When stitching en forreau back pleats, a spaced stab stitch is faster and distorts the fabric less than a longer running stitch or back stitch.. I did the whole back in one episode of Arrow (yes, I time my hand sewing by TV shows).<br />
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So tomorrow, I need to put ties in the skirt to draw it up, face the neckline, and put closures on the center front, tack up a hem and I'm DONE. I'm going to hold off on trim until I get a petticoat made and the stays finished for the Historical Sew Fortnightly, because honestly, if I never get to the trim, it's still a pretty dress. It's looking more and more like Other Half is going to attend the Francaise dinner as well, and if this is indeed the case, I'm going to have to produce passable 18th century menswear in the space of 2 weeks. Thus, my goal is to have ALL of my stuff done this weekend. just in case.<br />
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<br />Juliehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04769761537392397269noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5555303195834816217.post-20670972391511283782013-02-07T18:01:00.001-08:002013-02-07T18:01:13.409-08:00Printed Cotton Robe a l'Anglaise<br />
Been pretty productive tonight. Got my new Robe a l'Anglaise for the Francaise Dinner (yes, I see the irony) cut out of the cotton my parents sent me from Colonial Williamsburg and figured out that I have enough fabric to either A: make a seriously Frankensteined matching petticoat (anywhere hidden by the gown would be a different fabric) or do some self-fabric ruched trim (which is what I planned to do with my extra if I absolutely could not make a petticoat). So decision time.<br />
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I also got all the linings cut out. I'm well on track to making this the cheapest historical costume EVER, given that I cut the linings out of an old cotton sheet. So far literally the only things I've bought have been the 2 yards of quilted silk I found on Etsy for $8 a yard and my $20 of hair extensions to be able to build a pouf.<br />
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I'm modeling this creature after the one in Patterns of Fashion from The Gallery of English Costume, 1770-1780, with the skirts drawn up, a center-front close and the nice cupped-elbow sleeve, mostly because that's what I already fitted my much-abused JP Ryan pattern into.<br />
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So no pictures tonight because there's nothing to show yet, but with any luck pictures will be able to happen tomorrow.<br />
Juliehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04769761537392397269noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5555303195834816217.post-4966388733674568642013-02-06T20:39:00.000-08:002013-02-06T20:39:23.938-08:00Thesis<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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After 5 long years, my thesis is FINALLY finished! Well, mostly. I have some small edits to make tomorrow. But I won't think about that today. It goes before the committee on Monday and then DOBBY IS FREE!!!</div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjheII8V6TWaKImbUwPeXx47voUXltgHGD3o7yrjOhwc8rq88MAg5tENtdTf7rVJ5Wlupdo-47qzbg2ZjF5EWDJDfJLBGy4i7Osi_pqUfxGsmTxskmeuw2Bha9pHcOQHio4unexjQ9S0gI/s1600/finishedgown1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><span style="color: black;"><br /></span></a><span style="color: black;"></span>
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<span style="color: black;">Here's the final result:</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjheII8V6TWaKImbUwPeXx47voUXltgHGD3o7yrjOhwc8rq88MAg5tENtdTf7rVJ5Wlupdo-47qzbg2ZjF5EWDJDfJLBGy4i7Osi_pqUfxGsmTxskmeuw2Bha9pHcOQHio4unexjQ9S0gI/s1600/finishedgown1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjheII8V6TWaKImbUwPeXx47voUXltgHGD3o7yrjOhwc8rq88MAg5tENtdTf7rVJ5Wlupdo-47qzbg2ZjF5EWDJDfJLBGy4i7Osi_pqUfxGsmTxskmeuw2Bha9pHcOQHio4unexjQ9S0gI/s200/finishedgown1.jpg" width="76" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_0wREN2JPdeXTBBkfyLBu5x5beljqPdV_kQNzMsmNTGcylGi4h3FCdVvFj5HwhfbuyyrNtUPyaBLo6_SSdWYEvehuURbiyNNYp5u28LEbE83jn_Ns-y6kNigUJvCXUGqS9dTzRglguqQ/s1600/finishedgown2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_0wREN2JPdeXTBBkfyLBu5x5beljqPdV_kQNzMsmNTGcylGi4h3FCdVvFj5HwhfbuyyrNtUPyaBLo6_SSdWYEvehuURbiyNNYp5u28LEbE83jn_Ns-y6kNigUJvCXUGqS9dTzRglguqQ/s200/finishedgown2.jpg" width="86" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEv95lU2cgqnMCq8nMYXdLqQdWkhFC95S8C7p56JNfhz_3ynWCtPuJbNq6Uv_jnyOyJb2ZTB6y1FhSG2yWEMmnTgfe4Xs5dmGh7IBe8Wac7_9hMAnQgIy7swXv7n2Qhsrtx2fBUJ7zK7I/s1600/finishedgown3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEv95lU2cgqnMCq8nMYXdLqQdWkhFC95S8C7p56JNfhz_3ynWCtPuJbNq6Uv_jnyOyJb2ZTB6y1FhSG2yWEMmnTgfe4Xs5dmGh7IBe8Wac7_9hMAnQgIy7swXv7n2Qhsrtx2fBUJ7zK7I/s200/finishedgown3.jpg" width="80" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMW-ekRsiIeD2wszBqFOFcFNso5kj8ASdO4xIimuVr7ihFDW-glD-yVdkcKnHg_n0VbRiavllR1V9BpF8As8-7_xVVAFOM2DWIs4IlZEcTFcxvlUz1q4bXMI2vJN_wirkNmzoX5GG4-uw/s1600/finishedgown4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMW-ekRsiIeD2wszBqFOFcFNso5kj8ASdO4xIimuVr7ihFDW-glD-yVdkcKnHg_n0VbRiavllR1V9BpF8As8-7_xVVAFOM2DWIs4IlZEcTFcxvlUz1q4bXMI2vJN_wirkNmzoX5GG4-uw/s200/finishedgown4.jpg" width="156" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMvV9mq7sxb7IvdQr9IkLMvm_E-jbhLE4HkvbQHJTItcr5QJIaxsLz7-JneB9w96bmGV8Ghd_FDsz12PdMSktP_wkbn3NGbJsfzm9BwJujPnaB9y1kbN7I0faO2elbiOR15NrNKnJXNII/s1600/finishedgown5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMvV9mq7sxb7IvdQr9IkLMvm_E-jbhLE4HkvbQHJTItcr5QJIaxsLz7-JneB9w96bmGV8Ghd_FDsz12PdMSktP_wkbn3NGbJsfzm9BwJujPnaB9y1kbN7I0faO2elbiOR15NrNKnJXNII/s200/finishedgown5.jpg" width="200" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMvV9mq7sxb7IvdQr9IkLMvm_E-jbhLE4HkvbQHJTItcr5QJIaxsLz7-JneB9w96bmGV8Ghd_FDsz12PdMSktP_wkbn3NGbJsfzm9BwJujPnaB9y1kbN7I0faO2elbiOR15NrNKnJXNII/s1600/finishedgown5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br /></a></div>
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I've been up to my eyeballs in 18th century working dress for the last 2 months, and now that it's done, all I want to make are pretty frilly utterly useless things. So I've hauled back out a lot of old projects and I'm knocking them out one at a time. You'll see those as they happen - I would love to remember to update here more often. We'll see how that goes, I suppose. But I am going to SEW!Juliehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04769761537392397269noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5555303195834816217.post-47611996734313210312013-02-06T20:28:00.002-08:002013-02-06T20:28:44.813-08:001776 Stays, Take 2Tonight I hauled out the stays I made for Halloween to re-cover them for the Historical Sew Fortnightly challenge. I was just going to use a pink poly brocade from my stash but I realized that A: I adore the fit and cut of these, and B: I plan to avoid making another set until I absolutely have to because 2 sets is entirely enough for the moment. So I hauled out the $65 a yard silk brocade that I bought at Delectable Mountain when I was interning at Augusta Auctions and had Rococo on the brain, and covered them in that. It's pretty darn gorgeous. I got the pieces all covered and re-assembled and the machine sewing part of the binding done. In the process I discovered that my plastic whalebone had kinked at the side seams and center bust so I replaced it with spiral steel in those spots. Still need to bone the tabs, cut the tabs into the silk, and finish all the hand work on the binding. But yay stays!
<a href="http://wereleopard.livejournal.com/pics/catalog/257/2665" target="_blank"><img src="http://ic.pics.livejournal.com/wereleopard/975042/2665/2665_900.jpg" alt="1776 corset" title="1776 corset" width="880" height="900" /></a>
<a href="http://wereleopard.livejournal.com/pics/catalog/257/2851" target="_blank"><img src="http://ic.pics.livejournal.com/wereleopard/975042/2851/2851_900.jpg" alt="1776 stays" title="1776 stays" width="671" height="900" /></a>Juliehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04769761537392397269noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5555303195834816217.post-7438913503592277752012-01-24T18:32:00.000-08:002012-01-24T18:32:21.937-08:00Updating the websiteJust posted up both Victorian dresses on the website at <a href="http://www.snapdragondesign.net/">http://www.snapdragondesign.net</a>. Take a look and let me know what you think of the new interface!Juliehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04769761537392397269noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5555303195834816217.post-40889577796095974452011-04-01T18:23:00.000-07:002011-04-01T18:23:35.221-07:00Busy busy busy...I've gone a whole week without updating. Bad me.<br />
<br />
Here's why:<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.snapdragondesign.net/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=1902&g2_serialNumber=2" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://www.snapdragondesign.net/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=1902&g2_serialNumber=2" width="255" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.snapdragondesign.net/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=1894&g2_serialNumber=2" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://www.snapdragondesign.net/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=1894&g2_serialNumber=2" width="264" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.snapdragondesign.net/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=1898&g2_serialNumber=2" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://www.snapdragondesign.net/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=1898&g2_serialNumber=2" width="308" /></a></div><br />
Yeah, it was time for a new corset and bustle. Both are from Laughing Moon patterns - I was too lazy to scale something up this time.<br />
<br />
Things I learned:<br />
<br />
-Never bag-line a corset. I'd done it before with no ill-effects, but this time the brocade really needed the strength of the coutil lining to take the stress. It is not coping well.<br />
<br />
-Cable ties work great in bustles, but not so great in Victorian corsets - the thickness is a problem when you go to fit something over the corset.<br />
<br />
-When cutting out the back stays of the bustle, make sure you cut out the piece that actually goes to the bustle you're making. Don't cut out the wrong one, bone it, grommet it, get confused when the notches don't match, go running to the internet looking for errata or a tutorial, waste hours looking for others who had the same problem, THEN realize what you did and cut it down to the right piece.<br />
<br />
-When you're in a hurry and use one side of a grommeted seam to mark the other side... make sure one of them isn't upside down or your grommets will not match up. Thank heaven for spiral lacing - it hides a multitude of sins.<br />
<br />
-You can never have too many petticoats under a late 60s/early 70s dress without a hoop. You just can't.<br />
<br />
So that being said, it's done, it's cute, I hope it holds my skirts up (I have yet to try everything on together), and I'm determinedly not touching another Victorian dress for at least 2 weeks.<br />
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In other news, 6 panels out of 8 done on my stays, and I taught myself to make thread loops for metal hooks today, courtesy of <a href="http://ysolda.com/support/pictorial-guides/sewn-button-loops/">this</a> wonderful tutorial. Remarkably painless, and I feel at least slightly accomplished.<br />
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See you all at the ball!Juliehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04769761537392397269noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5555303195834816217.post-64835132688209966942011-03-25T20:40:00.000-07:002012-01-24T18:38:52.075-08:00Favorite 18th Century moviesSomeone asked me yesterday what my favorite 18th century movies are. This is a particularly timely question, as I'm pretty sure I've watched Every Single One that's out on DVD in the last 6 months.<br />
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Hand-stitching a set of stays will do that to you. By the way, 5 panels out of 8 finished!!<br />
<br />
So, I'm not sure how long this list will end up being, but I'm going for at least top 5 here.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://media.monstersandcritics.com/articles2/1484167/article_images/adams3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="212" src="http://media.monstersandcritics.com/articles2/1484167/article_images/adams3.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBbFlZZitOl1DCdyLzep0ZAE2AU4zXdxv3F5LY1ZRmICB6dQ6T-auD_e4nHLoo4FrqRu5POk6h22eCceXaSyLcaPAlQOMgKjdlU80ABl99VrWGiKAKPoXI2JrKTeev-0qWARZc3iHFDtJk/s320/laura.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBbFlZZitOl1DCdyLzep0ZAE2AU4zXdxv3F5LY1ZRmICB6dQ6T-auD_e4nHLoo4FrqRu5POk6h22eCceXaSyLcaPAlQOMgKjdlU80ABl99VrWGiKAKPoXI2JrKTeev-0qWARZc3iHFDtJk/s320/laura.jpg" /></a></div><br />
5. John Adams (miniseries). Laura Linney looks SO lovely in her 1790s gowns with the big poofy hair and her rosy cheeks... There's not a lot to love about Paul Giamatti, but I'm pretty sure that sums up John Adams as a character anyway.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_dLpaZ4jIOnM/SMMgU2n9hEI/AAAAAAAAEXs/UkavS7nCC9o/s400/keira-knightley-4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_dLpaZ4jIOnM/SMMgU2n9hEI/AAAAAAAAEXs/UkavS7nCC9o/s320/keira-knightley-4.jpg" width="311" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://images.teamsugar.com/files/upl2/1/13839/07_2009/334ec4fe8aedef66_Duchess-Top.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="214" src="http://images.teamsugar.com/files/upl2/1/13839/07_2009/334ec4fe8aedef66_Duchess-Top.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>4. The Duchess. Mostly for the scene in which Ralph Fiennes unstitches Keira Knightly's stomacher. Because NO ONE EVER DOES THAT AND IT'S SO DARN ACCURATE!<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://ia.media-imdb.com/images/M/MV5BMTMwMjY1NjgxNV5BMl5BanBnXkFtZTcwMjk0ODE1NA@@._V1._SX640_SY430_.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="215" src="http://ia.media-imdb.com/images/M/MV5BMTMwMjY1NjgxNV5BMl5BanBnXkFtZTcwMjk0ODE1NA@@._V1._SX640_SY430_.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_f4G3TFLiAQ4/TFB3TUXixdI/AAAAAAAACKk/_EViuHVSb6E/s1600/mad+george+powdered+wigs.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="174" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_f4G3TFLiAQ4/TFB3TUXixdI/AAAAAAAACKk/_EViuHVSb6E/s320/mad+george+powdered+wigs.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br />
3. The Madness of King George. Unintentionally hilarious, poignant, the costumes are lovely, and the acting is just FABULOUS.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjb_l4RIoyPc0ESDfIuuHEyQg6XbE7bqF9e6SnbgxK0KHbtmKUjFdIZ4LcADvOSG8Av6erhPUgJqALMMaChAhrkBRaKCgdRyCMc1D9QhQqq44jEZN05m_qqY7SGMNzpcTSpWUTZ6Y2enL4/s1600/patriot2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjb_l4RIoyPc0ESDfIuuHEyQg6XbE7bqF9e6SnbgxK0KHbtmKUjFdIZ4LcADvOSG8Av6erhPUgJqALMMaChAhrkBRaKCgdRyCMc1D9QhQqq44jEZN05m_qqY7SGMNzpcTSpWUTZ6Y2enL4/s320/patriot2.JPG" width="227" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://home.golden.net/%7Emarg/bansite/films/images/pa001.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://home.golden.net/%7Emarg/bansite/films/images/pa001.jpg" /></a></div><br />
2. The Patriot. Yes, it's cheesy. The costumes are painfully inaccurate at times. But... Jason Isaacs as a redcoat? SIGN ME UP. The uniforms on the whole look awesome (accurate, I can't speak to, but they're sure pretty) and despite the equally-inaccurate history, I do love me some good old fashioned bayonet and cannon and cavalry warfare.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjA1r9v4lL-iMlFO81oBCoo8lpfXDeC5zxB6MnSW_IfzW9D-LKiJ0fZoNrxX-iHbuvOQspjq7zKb3-Xz0i18o9i0fJmJmnbbSIwa18r0SKjimrmC3OyxchypMk-zCgmXu7V7KSdl4tw-Njw/s320/brotherhood_of_the_wolf_01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjA1r9v4lL-iMlFO81oBCoo8lpfXDeC5zxB6MnSW_IfzW9D-LKiJ0fZoNrxX-iHbuvOQspjq7zKb3-Xz0i18o9i0fJmJmnbbSIwa18r0SKjimrmC3OyxchypMk-zCgmXu7V7KSdl4tw-Njw/s320/brotherhood_of_the_wolf_01.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
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1. Brotherhood of the Wolf. It's French, it's trashy, there's gore and bad CG and as usual, the bad guy is trying to screw his sister, but it's darn pretty and I can't find a lot to complain about costume-wise outside of the brothel scenes. <br />
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Movies that did NOT make this list:<br />
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Marie Antoinette - It's like Easter candy. Unnaturally pastel, great in small doses, but don't have too much and don't take it seriously or you'll get sick.<br />
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Jefferson in Paris - While, surprisingly, the costumes aren't bad, the acting is horrendous. Come on Thandie Newton, I know you're better than that. Sally Hemings did NOT need to be a caricature of what 19th century slave-owners thought slaves should be.<br />
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Dangerous Liaisons - I know, I know, the classic, the standard, etc. The getting dressed sequence is marvelous. But the movie is just So. Darn. Boring. I'll take Cruel Intentions any day, thanks.<br />
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Amadeus - I remember watching, and liking this as a child. As an adult and a costumer, I got about halfway through and I had to turn it off. You know, right about the point when the female lead unhooks the front stud busk on her corset (with CUPS) and then removes her bloomers. Yeah. It's That Bad.<br />
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King of the Wind - I can't FIND a copy!! It only came out on VHS and darned if I just can't get ahold of it now. So, you know, if any of you out there in blog land know where I can get it, do say something.<br />
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The Affair of the Necklace - Because I often make love with my panniers still on. Don't you? Tack on some ridiculously artificially-colored silks and the fact that no one would ever accuse Hilary Swank of great beauty in the 18th century, and you have a travesty of an unwatchable movie. The only bright spot? Joely Richardson's Marie Antoinette and her blithe detachment from reality. And tact.<br />
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On that note, it's been a long week, I'm sick to death of WHITE COTTON DRESSES, and I have about 20 different projects incubating for tomorrow. What am I likely to do? Work on my stays. What do I WANT to do? FINISH something.<br />
<br />
On the work table right now:<br />
<br />
-Spring dresses, including a white knit covered in red lobsters. Schiaparelli much?<br />
-Thesis project - Hand-stitched stays, chemise and cap. Mostly hand-stitched gown and petticoats.<br />
-Frock coat for Other Half<br />
-Fixing the waistbands on my 1870 evening dress, and attaching the lace to the sleeves. Stitching the belt into place so it doesn't look like I tied it while drunk.<br />
-Bustle for under 1870 dress so I can stop tying a pillow to my butt every time I wear it <br />
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And still incubating:<br />
-1880s morning ensemble in blue satin and black velvet<br />
-Regency dress using replica cotton that I'm digitizing myself<br />
-18th century gown using Williamsburg cotton I bought last week (that I actually like much better than my Duran Textiles replica print I bought for my thesis, but don't get me started on that.)<br />
-Day bodice and separate peplum for 1870 skirts<br />
-Waist cincher out of Bright Pink cupcake print cotton. Because who DOESN'T need one of those?<br />
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It must be spring, I seem to be getting a bit manic...Juliehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04769761537392397269noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5555303195834816217.post-30536296562017391332011-03-21T16:08:00.000-07:002011-03-21T16:08:57.381-07:00Breaking the RulesVery little in Victorian menswear is more iconic than the frock coat. From Wyatt Earp to Mr. Rochester, it's everywhere.<br />
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So it seemed like a marvelous idea to make one for the <a href="http://blank.org/susan/FancyDress2011.pdf">Fancy Dress Ball of the 1880s</a>, coming up in just a couple of weeks.<br />
<br />
Silly us.<br />
<br />
My dress is a perfectly correct ca. 1870 evening dress. It's certainly not fancy dress, but I'll put something bizarre on my head and call myself "a lady dreadfully behind fashion" and be content for this year.<br />
<br />
For him, we selected the <a href="http://www.lafnmoon.com/">Laughing Moon</a> Frock Coat pattern.<br />
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"But wait!" you say. "Isn't the frock coat dreadfully informal??"<br />
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Yes. Yes it is.<br />
<a href="http://www.blogger.com/goog_1542574615"><br />
</a><br />
<a href="http://books.google.com/books?id=cwPXAAAAMAAJ&pg=PP1#v=onepage&q&f=false">The Manners that Win</a>, from 1880, describes a frock coat as part of morning dress - "A black cut-away coat, or a frock coat and dark vest, with lighter trowsers, silk tie, either black or of some neutral color, and gloves of a medium or neutral shade -- is the proper calling costume for a gentleman."<br />
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For different occasions, you can add some variety - "Gentlemen, at a kettle-drum, wear the usual morning dress; a black cutaway, or a frock coat, dark trowsers, black silk necktie, and a medium or neutral shade of gloves, if gloves are worn at all. In warm weather, light gray or colored trowsers, colored neckties and white vests may be worn.... Neither white tie nor dress coat... must appear at a day reception of any kind."<br />
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For a morning wedding: "full morning-dress is worn by the groom and groomsmen... a dark blue, or black frock-coat and vest, light tie, and light trowsers. The groom wears white gloves, the ushers light gloves of some delicate shade. White ties are never worn with frock coats. At an evening wedding... all wear full evening-dress."<br />
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So, it doesn't get much clearer than that. Dear Boyfriend will be woefully underdressed.<br />
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Of course, I've now gone down the rabbit hole into 1870s and 80s etiquette manuals, and it seems like such a shame not to round out this post with some corroboration.<br />
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<a href="http://books.google.com/books?id=3VkEAAAAYAAJ&pg=PP1#v=onepage&q&f=false">Sensible Etiquette of the Best Society, Customs, Manners, Morals, and Home Culture </a>(1878) has the following tidbits to share:<br />
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"A dress-coat at a morning or afternoon reception, on any one but a waiter, is as much out of place as a frock-coat would be at a large dinner. The frock-coat and gray trousers, make quite as becoming a costume, and one that is established for morning dress by the same regulations which prescribe our evening dress."<br />
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"Much confusion has prevailed in the minds of some American men as to the occasions when a dress-coat is to be worn. It has been shown that morning dress and evening dress for men varies as decidedly as it does for women. A gentleman in a dress-coat and white tie feels as uncomfortable in the daylight as would a lady in low neck and short sleeves. The gas should be lighted, and the shutters closed, on ceremonious occasions where evening dress is desired in daylight. Frenchmen are married in dress-coats at morning weddings, Englishmen in frock-coats."<br />
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<a href="http://books.google.com/books?id=q_lZAAAAMAAJ&pg=PA1#v=onepage&q&f=false">Sensible Etiquette and Good Manners of the Best Society, For Those About Entering and Those Who Desire to Become Educated and Polished in General Society. Containing Nice Points of Taste, Good Manners, and the Art of Making One's Self Agreeable - A Manual of Manners and Customs at Parties, Balls, Dinners and Sociables... To Which is Added the Art of Writing</a> (1882) - which, by the way, is one of the more entertaining of these that I've yet read - offers these prescriptions to weigh into our debate:<br />
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"There is a scale of honor among clothes, which must not be forgotten. Thus, a new coat is more honorable than an old one, a cut-away or shooting-coat than a dressing-gown, a frock-coat than a cut-away, a dark blue frock-coat than a black frock-coat, a tail-coat than a frock coat. There is no honor at all in a blue tail-coat, however, except on a gentleman of eighty, accompanied with brass buttons and a buff waistcoat. There is more honor in an old hunting-coat than in a new one, in a uniform with a bullet-hole in it than one without, in a fustian jacket and smock-frock than in a frock-coat, because they are types of labor, which is far more honorable than lounging."<br />
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So it's pretty clear we're breaking all the rules... That being said, if Other Half should happen to die from shame, he'll be set...<br />
<br />
From <a href="http://books.google.com/books?id=aSJHAAAAIAAJ&dq=The%20Cynic%27s%20Rules%20of%20Conduct&pg=PA21#v=onepage&q&f=false">The Cynic's Rules of Conduct</a> (1905): "At afternoon funerals, wear a frock coat and top hat. Should the funeral be your own, the hat may be dispensed with."Juliehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04769761537392397269noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5555303195834816217.post-7029387312055688582011-03-20T06:52:00.000-07:002011-03-20T06:52:20.792-07:00The Victorian TailorAs evidenced previously, I love books. Every time I start a new project, I end up buying at least one to tell me what I need to know.<br />
<br />
So this weekend, we're starting my other half's Victorian frock coat. This resulted directly in the purchase of an extant example from the very early 20th century, and the brand new book <i>The Victorian Tailor: An Introduction to Period Tailoring</i>, by Jason MacLochlainn.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVUDxKtjta1Uzm8ePut9U7kIdg_tlr0qF57vZwQGnJJb2CUwA2sYfsx4lvZJpUUfQgGhqtCxPpH9fM-gE_6mf891whJ0eW3REZLn3J3q6GcwRbQJGLH3WJeBZjK4fY6mzPVzeveNVgwqs/s1600/Victorian+Tailor.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVUDxKtjta1Uzm8ePut9U7kIdg_tlr0qF57vZwQGnJJb2CUwA2sYfsx4lvZJpUUfQgGhqtCxPpH9fM-gE_6mf891whJ0eW3REZLn3J3q6GcwRbQJGLH3WJeBZjK4fY6mzPVzeveNVgwqs/s1600/Victorian+Tailor.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> Amazon Link: <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Victorian-Tailor-Introduction-Period-Tailoring/dp/0312642334/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1300627163&sr=8-1">http://www.amazon.com/Victorian-Tailor-Introduction-Period-Tailoring/dp/0312642334/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1300627163&sr=8-1</a></div><ul style="text-align: center;"><li><b>Paperback:</b> 160 pages</li>
<li><b>Publisher:</b> St. Martin's Griffin; Original edition (March 15, 2011)</li>
<li><b>Language:</b> English</li>
<li><b>ISBN-10:</b> 9780312642334</li>
</ul>I first learned about this book when I was Google-searching Victorian tailoring for men, and Jason's name came up again and again, on his <a href="http://jmaclochlainn.livejournal.com/">Livejournal</a>, on the bespoke and historic tailoring forum <a href="http://www.cutterandtailor.com/">The Cutter and Tailor</a>, and on numerous other forums. It seems that in this world, he's one of THE authorities, and I noticed his very affordable (approximately $18) book was only a week or two from release. So, I ordered it.<br />
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Let me tell you, I am SO IMPRESSED.<br />
<br />
Jason has crammed an amazing amount of information into such a manageable-size book, from a general chronological survey of historic drafting techniques and measuring systems and a detailed decade-by-decade timeline of men's fashion 1830-1900 to the proper tools of the tailor's trade and (my absolute favorites, and those of my other half) extremely detailed diagrams of tailoring stitches that are completely clear to both experts AND beginners. <br />
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The second half of the book covers pattern-drafting using included scales, an approach familiar to those who have used any of the <a href="http://www.lavoltapress.com/">La Volta Press</a> publications, including the <i>Fashions of the Gilded Age </i>books. It contains patterns for waistcoats, pants, and coats, and takes you step by step through drafting, cutting and making-up the included examples.<br />
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It concludes with what is essentially a "workbook", several small exercises to practice your skills before you turn yourself loose on your expensive piece of wool or silk.<br />
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I found this book to be invaluable to both of us. Other Half is just learning to sew, and since he got to read this book first, he was quite gratified to share with me all the cool facts and tidbits he picked up from it, as well as finally understanding some of the concepts of pattern grading I tried and failed to explain to him. He understood almost all of it, and has been asking some very good, educated questions instead of the typical learner's helpless "What do I do??"<br />
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Jason is so clear and thorough in his instructions that I don't see how anyone could try to make a garment from this book and NOT succeed. He breaks down every single step of assembly into numerous individual sub-steps, illustrated with period illustrations, clear modern line drawings, and quotes from period sources.<br />
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This also leads directly into my only complaint about this book. He often gets so deep into the nitty-gritty of things like pocketing or inserting lining that he misses important concepts like fitting the coat, or altering for atypical bodies. He does promise more information in future books, though, so don't go and lynch him yet!Juliehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04769761537392397269noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5555303195834816217.post-37855360747657435492011-03-19T07:35:00.000-07:002011-03-19T07:35:01.564-07:00The BookshelfFashion people don't read books, right? We don't spend hours cooing and squealing over pretty pictures and someone's new economic analysis of the hemp trade in 15th century Uzbekistan. We certainly don't go running to each other every time Amazon informs us of a new upcoming title and buzz amongst ourselves about how amazing we're sure it's going to be... certainly not.<br />
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Oh.... wait.<br />
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I, like all other costumers, have a serious problem. I'm addicted to books. From the Hands-On History series for children to the heavily (literally) scholarly work of Aileen Ribeiro, Naomi Tarrant, Janet Arnold and Maria Hayward. It got so bad that I would find a book at The Strand, and be sure I'd never seen it before, and it was the only copy in the entire world, and I just HAD TO HAVE IT and I would buy it, and I would get home, and I would go to put it onto the bookshelf.... and find its twin already there. <br />
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Especially in the process of writing my thesis, when I was hauling my books everywhere and they were getting beat up and written in and marked with sticky notes and covered in sand, I accumulated a lot of books very fast. I would rather abuse my own books than someone else's. And the collection got way out of hand.<br />
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One day, I was sitting at my desk, writing away frantically as my end-of-semester deadlines loomed... and my bookshelf collapsed. My carefully-organized titles leaped from their shelves, committing literary suicide upon the floor in all sorts of undignified positions, and I was left with a pile of splintered wood and a bigger pile of books.<br />
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Enter<a href="http://www.librarything.com/"> LibraryThing</a>.<br />
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I'd been meaning to catalog my library, if for no other reason than so my mother would stop calling me every time she entered a book store, asking me if I had such-and-such latest book and could she borrow it if I did? This disaster posed the perfect opportunity.<br />
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I bought a new bookshelf, and a CueCat, and a lifetime membership to LibraryThing, and as each carefully-hoarded acquisition was re-homed on the shelves, it was entered into my virtual bookshelf as well. LibraryThing allows you to not only keep a private inventory of what you have, it also allows you to make this list public, search it, read reviews, find recommended books that you DON'T have but others with similar tastes do, and connect with those other users who own many of the same books. In my case, I was gratified to find that many of my "similar users" were in fact other members of the online costuming community whose names I knew, and several were even LiveJournal friends of mine already.<br />
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Now, when I'm out and about and find that book I simply MUST have, it's a simple matter to pull out my phone, check my LibraryThing inventory, and sternly remind myself to go home and re-read the copy I already have, because obviously its contents didn't stick the first time.<br />
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For the curious: <a href="http://www.librarything.com/catalog/jburnsides">http://www.librarything.com/catalog/jburnsides</a> Juliehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04769761537392397269noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5555303195834816217.post-726036884128321572011-03-19T07:10:00.000-07:002011-03-19T07:10:42.884-07:00Hello WorldWell... welcome.<br />
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I have about 30 million thoughts all swirling about in my head, not least of which is "do I really have anything to say that people want to hear?"and "What is this new venture going to be?" There's also painful self realization. "Will I be able to keep this blog current and updated?"<br />
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So I'm going to set some frameworks here.<br />
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First of all, a shout-out and a thank you to the lovely Abby of <a href="http://www.stay-ingalive.blogspot.com/">Stay-ing Alive</a>. This week I had the privilege and pleasure of watching her present her research into the impact and reach of historical costume blogs, and then speaking with her afterward. She and her work inspired me (so if this blog turns out to be a dismal failure, well, it'll be my fault, but you can blame her anyway.)<br />
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Second, while I might currently have the coolest job in the entire world, I can't really tell you about it. Or talk about it. Because anything said publicly about my museum or what goes on there must be carefully vetted for public consumption, as befits an institution of great dignity. And yes, I can't say that I blame them.<br />
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Third, this blog will be (to the best of my ability), separate from my personal costuming business and all associated advertising. That doesn't mean I won't post personal research and photos of things I've made, both my own costumes and those for my customers, it just means that I won't be selling anything here, including advertisements or endorsements. If I tell you I love something, you may be sure it isn't because they bribed me.<br />
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Because I'm not here to make money or advertise for myself or anyone else, my hand is a bit more free with regards to online images for research and illustration purposes. I can genuinely show you what I want to show you, in an academic context.<br />
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This is a huge step for me, both in terms of committing to updating something regularly (I am ashamed to admit that the greeting on my business site is roughly a year old, and the content is at least 2 years behind) and in using my own name publicly, not embracing the anonymity of the internet to say whatever I want without fear of reprisal. If I expect to be taken seriously (and I do - usually) then I need to be accountable for every word here set forth. I want an open, honest dialog with the costuming community, and if I screw something up, for heaven's sake, TELL ME. I came out of graduate school feeling like I knew everything, and the more I interact with the very talented people in this little world of ours, the more I realize that I still need to learn.<br />
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So.... teach me. And hopefully somewhere in this process, I'll find my wings.Juliehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04769761537392397269noreply@blogger.com0